Alvdstze whited



' (No Model.)

' A. WHITED.

COLLAR; No, 297,653. Patented Apr. 29, 1884.

' Fig.1.

N. PETERS, Phowmho n hm w shmuou n c UNITED STATES ALVINZE WHITED, OFTROY,

PATENT OFFICE.

NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO HOLMES 8t IDE, OF

SAME PLACE.

COLLAR.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 297,653, dated April 29, 1884;.

Application filed November 23, 1883. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALVINZE WHIT D, of the city of Troy, county of Rensselaer, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Apparel-Collars, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to certain improve.

ments in the manner of making apparel-collars, and more particularly to that class of standing collars that are made without bands, and arranged to have a thinner part on their lower edges wherethe button-holes are placed.

My invention consists, as will be fully detailed hereinafter, in the combination, with the outer linen facings of the collar, of two thicknesses of ply-blanks, one of which is cut to have the same form as the facings, and the other ply-blank cut narrower, but having the same form upon what is its upper edge when in position in the finished collar, with the narrower ply-blank laid over the lower edge of the wider blank, the former being inverted,

, and its inner edge as thus laid placed a little below the longitudinal center of the wider ply blank, and the parts being as thus laid sewed together near the lapping edge of the narrower ply-blank, and following which the latter is turned up on its sewed union and folded down so that the rounded edges of the two blanks coincide at what forms the top edge of the collar when completed, after which the linen facings are laid over the united and folded ply-blanks, and the parts thus placed sewed around the ends, top, and bottom, with the exception of an opening at the bottom, through which the collar is turned, and then border-stitched to include and close the turnedin edges of the opening.

Accompanying this specification, and forming a part of it, is asheet of drawings containing five figures illustrating my invention,with the same designation of parts by letter reference used in all of them.

Figure 1 shows the two ply-blanks,with the narrower one inverted and sewed longitudinally along what is its inner edge (as placed) horizontal center of the latter.

shown as rolled down to illustrate the attachment of the ply-blanks. Fig. 3 shows the position of the parts afterthe linen facings have been laid over the folded and connected plyblanks and sewed preparatory to turning them, with one end of each of the facings curled up to show their relative position. Fig. 4 illustrates a completed collar; and Fig. 5, a section taken on the line :10 a: of Fig. 4, with the thickness of the parts exaggerated to show them to better advantage.

The parts of the collar are designated by "letter reference, and the several steps by which they are connected are described as follows:

The letter P indicates the wider ply-blank, which is cut to correspond with the form and size of the linen facings L and U, which form the exterior of the collar when finished; and the letter I? designates the narrower ply-blank. This narrower width of ply-blank is inverted and laid over the Wider ply-blank P, with what is the inner edge of said blank 1? just below the longitudinal center of the .wider blank P, in which position they are thus placed, are sewed around inside of their edges, as indicated at S with an'opening left in the bottom through which to turn them. After being turned through the opening in the bottom, so as to bring the linen facings to the exterior, the parts are border-stitched, as indicated at S so as to include the turned-in edges of the opening at the collar-bottom. Thus made, the collar does not show an external seam dividingthe thicker part from the thinner part of the collar; but all the advantages produced by a stiffening-seam are obtained by one that is out of sight, and which is produced by the lapping and secured folded edge of the narrower ply P and as indicated at A, Fig. 5, and as between the thicker part T and the thinner part T IOv I am well aware that it is not new to form a fold-line in the collar proper of banded collars by means of a ply that is narrower than the width of the collar proper above the band, with such narrower ply edge sewed through from the outside of the eollar-facings, with a seam visible from the outside; and I am also aware that it is not new to make bandless collars with an upper thicker and lower thinner part, and my invention is limited to the better method of making such collars, which I illustrate and describe.

Having thus described my invention,what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 1s

1. In a bandless collar made to have an upper thickerpart and a lower thinner part, and, in combination therewith, an interior longitudinally-zu'ranged lapping seam between the said thinner and thicker parts of the collar, and produced by inverting a thickness of the ply that is cut to be narrower than the fullwidth blanks of the collar, uniting said narrower blank as inverted on its inner edge longitudinally to a full-width thickness of the ply at or below the transverse center of the latter, and then turning up said narrow plyblank over its lapping union, so as to bring its outer edge in folded coincidence with the other blanks before superimposing the faeings, sewing, and turning the collar, as shown and described.

2. A bandless collar made with an upper thicker and lower thinner part, in combination with an interior stiffening-seam arranged longitudinally within the ply free from the facings of the collar, and between said thicker and thinner parts, as herein shown and described.

Signed at the city of Troy this 21st day of November, 1883, and in the presence of the two witnesses whose names were by them written.

ALVINZE WHITED.

Witnesses: RICHARD ALLEN, CHARLES S. BRINTNALL. 

